Taste-Off: The best fresh goat cheese — and the ones to avoid

Soft goat cheese tastes pungent, earthy, and perhaps a little strange to those who are used to eating cream cheese made from cow’s milk. Goat cheese is tart, sassy, and full of unexpected funky flavors.

Those who are brave enough to take a second and third bite often fall hard for the snowy white cheese’s tangy, bright flavors, which are a brilliant counterpoint to everything from beets to blueberries. Creamy goat cheese can be smeared on a bagel, mixed into pasta, or simply served with crackers as an instant appetizer.

In terms of nutrition, goat cheese is higher in vitamins and minerals while being lower in calories and cholesterol than cow’s milk cheese. Even better, goat’s milk contains a distinct, bold-flavored fatty acid that not only changes the flavor of the milk but also lowers the lactose content and promotes proper digestion.

Fresh goat cheese comes in a variety of flavors, including honey, pepper, and herb-infused varieties. We only had plain stockpiled for this taste test. In general, goat cheeses have nearly the same nutritional content and appearance — it’s white and usually sold in log form — but the flavor differences between brands are significant, owing primarily to the milk source. Although European goat cheese dominates the global market, most of the brands we found in local stores are from California, the northern states, and Canada.

Excellent goat cheese is rich, creamy, and pleasantly pungent, with just a hint of bitterness. As it warms in the mouth, layers of flavor emerge, ranging from cheesy to nutty to buttery. Bad goat cheese packs such a punch of bitter, sour flavors that it’s difficult to swallow.

Here’s the lowdown on the bold goat cheeses that will add character to any pairing, as well as the sad, bitter blobs that will convert goat cheese skeptics into haters. The nutritional information is for one ounce of cheese.

Laura Chenel Original Goat

This nutty, complex cheese’s fresh milk note makes for a bright bite worthy of any cracker or bagel. 70 calories, 5 grams of fat, 100 milligrams of sodium, and 4 grams of protein. Safeway charges $9.99 for 8 ounces. (4 stars)

Natural Cypress Grove Goat Cheese

This completely delectable cheese is buttery and rich, with multiple flavor notes that make it a standout in the category. 80 calories, 6 grams of fat, 125 milligrams of sodium, and 5 grams of protein. Whole Foods is selling 4 ounces for $6.79. (4 stars)

Log of Silver Goat

This cheese is a steal at this price, with a mild buttermilk flavor and an exaggerated creamy note. 90 calories, 7 grams of fat, 105 milligrams of sodium, and 5 grams of protein. Trader Joe’s charges $4.49 for 8.5 ounces. (3½ stars)

365 Log of Goat Cheese

This is a pleasant, if relatively mild, choice with a nutty punch and mouthwatering cheese notes. 80 calories, 6 grams of fat, 80 milligrams of sodium, and 5 grams of protein. Whole Foods charges $9.49 for 10 ounces. (3 stars)

Kirkland Signature Goat Cheese

This cheese is made with goat milk from Canada and has a creamy texture with a clean, fresh flavor. 80 calories, 6 grams of fat, 100 milligrams of sodium, and 5 grams of protein. Costco charges $7.69 for two 10.5 ounce logs. (2½ stars)

Goat Cheese from Vermont Creamery

This is a good choice for dips and spreads because of its mild tanginess and velvety texture, but it lacks personality. 80 calories, 6 grams of fat, 60 milligrams of sodium, and 5 grams of protein. Whole Foods charges $5.99 for 4 ounces. (2½ stars)

Goat Cheese Primo Taglio

Those who enjoy the grassy flavor of fresh milk may enjoy this fairly sour but intriguing cheese. Combine this sour cheese with cream cheese to smooth out the ragged flavor notes. 80 calories, 6 grams of fat, 80 milligrams of sodium, and 5 grams of protein. Safeway charges $5.99 for 4 ounces. (2 stars)

Roth Chevre

This snow-white Wisconsin cheese has a nutty flavor, but it’s so tart that it tastes like yogurt. 70 calories, 5 grams of fat, 75 milligrams of sodium, and 4 grams of protein. Grocery Outlet charges $2.49 for 4 ounces. (2 stars)

Chevre from Trader Joe’s

If flavor were the only criterion, this super tangy cheese would get a higher rating, but it’s quite grainy. 80 calories, 6 grams of fat, 80 milligrams of sodium, and 5 grams of protein. 5 ounces for $2.99. (1½ stars)

Frederick’s Goat Cheese

Chavrie Original Goat Cheese

The texture of this extra-creamy, light cheese is similar to whipped cream, and it tastes more like processed cream cheese than goat cheese. 47 calories, 4 grams of fat, 117 milligrams of sodium, and 3 grams of protein. Safeway charges $6.99 for 5.3 ounces. (1 star)

Montchevre Goat Cheese

This is a poor choice due to an unappealing hit of sourness combined with an unpleasant, gritty texture. 80 calories, 6 grams of fat, 80 milligrams of sodium, and 5 grams of protein. Raley’s sells 8 ounces for $10.99. (½ a star)

O Organics Soft Goat Cheese

Yikes. This insanely sour cheese is excruciatingly bitter. 80 calories, 6 grams of fat, 80 milligrams of sodium, and 4 grams of protein. Safeway charges $6.99 for 4 ounces. (There are no stars.)