Skip Paris and visit this pretty city 2 hours away. It feels less crowded but still has lots of holiday magic.
By late November, Bordeaux feels like it’s filled with lights.
As the oft-repeated saying goes, Paris is always a good idea. And although that’s true, it can feel crowded and congested, especially during Christmastime.
That’s why I now prefer to go to Bordeaux, the wine capital of the world, during the busy winter season.
This elegant city, just two hours south of Paris by train, is a real stunner filled with classic Haussmanian buildings, dramatic 18th-century neoclassical architecture, and picturesque cobblestone streets.
At less than half the size of Paris, Bordeaux gets a fraction of its millions of tourists a year, which makes it the perfect place to enjoy French esprit de Noël without feeling overwhelmed.
Bordeaux starts to get fully festive in November
In late November, Bordeaux transforms into a winter wonderland with festive lights and illuminated backdrops.
The season officially kicks off with a concert at the Opéra National de Bordeaux on Place de la Comédie, followed by the lighting of a 36-foot-high Christmas tree made of steel and glass.
For a breathtaking 360-degree view of the city, start your trip with the Les Caneles Cruise, an hour-and-15-minute ride up and down the Garonne River.
You’ll learn about the city’s fascinating (and troubling) history, architecture, and culture while sipping wine and munching on canelés, a famous local pastry. It’s the perfect way to acclimate to Bordeaux.
The city has great seasonal shopping and eats
Bordeaux has some great cheese and festive decor.
If holiday shopping and sampling local culinary specialties tops your list of must-dos, grab a cup of vin chaud (mulled wine) or chocolat chaud (hot chocolate) and wander through over 100 petite wooden chalets at the Grand Marché de Noël in Bordeaux’s city center.
At this holiday market, local purveyors sell everything from hand-poured candles to grilled chestnuts. This year, the market has several workshops where you can make your own candles, maple butter, cosmetics, and more.
Or head to Darwin, the right bank’s eco-district, for an alternative Christmas market featuring handcrafted goods, art, live music, organic food, and more. It’s where all the cool kids hang out.
You can also wander along Rue Sainte-Catherine, Europe’s longest pedestrian shopping street.
Maybe visit the posh Chartrons district north of the city center, where you’ll find Rue Notre Dame, one of my favorite streets in Bordeaux.
It’s filled with hip boutiques like the Do You Speak Francaise concept store, antique shops, restaurants, and my favorite place for canelés — Micheline and Paulette Bakery.
Warm up with wine, culture, and art
Bordeaux has some beautiful architecture, too.
Bordeaux isn’t called the wine capital of the world for nothing. There are wine bars are everywhere, serving the best vintages from the region.
Two of my top picks are Yarra Wine Bar and Le Bar à Vin. The latter is in a magnificent 18th-century building across from the Bordeaux Tourism office.
Here, you can order affordable regional wines by the glass and cheese plates, charcuterie, and other snacks. A top-notch glass of bubbly will only set you back about four euros.
If the weather isn’t cooperating, you can always wander through the city’s many museums, including the must-see Cité du Vin, an immersive wine museum, or Bassins des Lumières, the largest digital art center in the world located in a former submarine base.
Plus, it’s in a prime location if you want to explore other parts of France
Another reason to spend the winter holidays in Bordeaux is you can easily visit nearby villages without having to elbow your way through hordes of tourists.
Weather and time permitting, you can take a half-day or full-day chateaux or winery tour to Saint-Émilion or Margaux, two of the world’s most famous wine destinations.
I look forward to returning to Bordeaux this year to experience even more holiday joy and the city’s many charms. Maybe I’ll see you there?
