See the 13 California restaurants that made Esquire’s ‘Best New Restaurants in America’

Burdell in Oakland and Kiln in San Francisco are among the critic’s picks for 2023’s top eateries.

Esquire’s list of “The Best New Restaurants in America, 2023” was just released, and – surprise, surprise – California is well represented, with many featured spots hailing from the Bay Area and Southern California.

Ilis in Brooklyn was named “Restaurant of the Year” by the magazine’s critics, who were impressed by a “fish as it would have been done centuries ago, wrapped in bark and cooked over flames.” Hmm… OK. However, 13 of the 50 places they highlight are located right here in California. These are the restaurants; for the full list, visit Esquire.

Calistoga, Auro

Thanks to the talents of chef Rogelio Garcia, who has worked at Cyrus and the French Laundry, this one Michelin-starred Napa restaurant excels at the super-luxury tasting-menu experience.


Burdell, Oakland

A new and elevated soul-food spot pays tribute to the family recipes of Chef Geoff Davis, wh makes a mean roasted pork neck and head-on barbecue shrimp. (Read our review here.)


Carmel’s Noir Chez Noir-By-The-Sea

Chef Jonny Black and his wife, Monique Black, run this coastal Californian restaurant, which features a fresh bounty of seafood from nearby Monterey Bay.

San Francisco, Dalida

Dalida’s delicious sharing plates highlight the flavors of the Eastern Mediterranean, particularly Istanbul. Its location within the Presidio, a military base-turned-park, is also a big plus.


Kiln, San Francisco

Chef John Wesley’s new tasting menu restaurant is vying for a Michelin star with dishes like Norwegian king crab with tomato miso, geoduck with Osetra caviar, and Modesto squab with burgundy truffle.

Los Angeles’ Dunsmoor neighborhood

Chef Brian Dunsmoor oversees this American-inspired restaurant, which serves hearty, comforting dishes like Kobe-beef tartare, bison tartare with fried oysters, and rainbow trout with Rosebank grits and ham vinaigrette.

Hitokuchi from San Diego

Hitokuchi literally translates to “one sip, one bite,” and that’s exactly what you get here: high-quality sake paired with punchy small plates like live spot prawn with uni and shrimp-head sauce and A5 wagyu tataki with velvety puree de pommes.

San Diego’s Mabel’s Gone Fishing

This quirky but endearing restaurant highlights SoCal’s fresh seafood and takes an Iberian approach with dishes like pan con tomate con boquerones and Spanish tortilla con caviar.

Los Angeles Poltergeist

Chef Diego Argoti runs this fun kitchen inside an Echo Park bar and arcade, putting creative spins on classics like Caesar salad (done Thai-style) and Chinese beef-and-broccoli (ravioli with short ribs and oxtail).

Los Angeles is the location of Ubuntu L.A.

Shenarri Freeman’s new restaurant is inspired by West African ingredients and features an entirely plant-based menu. Shenarri Freeman has been nominated for a James Beard Award.

Los Angeles, yes.

At this new restaurant, which began as a sashimi food truck, Chef Junya Yamasaki serves “progressive Japanese” fare powered by charcoal grilling.

Ojai’s Rory’s Place

In this relaxing restaurant, sisters Meave and Rory McAuliffe have a ball with modern Californian cuisine, which also happens to feature some truly bizarre cocktails (a Hello Satan with serrano chili and cilantro-infused olive oil?).

Valle and Oceanside

The Michelin-starred Valle serves seasonal menus with Guadalupe Valley-inspired modern Mexican cooking.

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